Stories, Journals & News

More Than a Mountain: My Upper Mustang Trek and the Fight to Save a Kingdom

Published Jun 23, 2025 Updated Aug 29, 2026 2 min read

It was my first trek to Upper Mustang in Nepal. I have traveled across Europe, South America, and Asia. Nepal was always on my bucket list. Little did I know, it was next door to India. I hurried and flew to Nepal last month, in May 2025, after I toured India.

Mountains have always fascinated me, and Nepal is home to Mt. Everest (8848.86 m) is the tallest mountain in the world. Also has kept 8 of the world’s 14 mountains over 8,000 meters. This time, I was not looking for mountains solely. I was in search of an exotic land with Tibetan-Buddhism culture and a snowy mountain peak in the distance. I came across the Upper Mustang Trek for 13 Days.

suspension bride in Upper Mustang

At the end of last May, I completed the 10-day trek, following the Upper Mustang itinerary: 

Kagbeni → Chele → Syanboche → Dhakmar → Lo Manthang → Chhoser → Yara → Tange → Chuksang → Muktinath 

The journey was made possible by the excellent organization of North Nepal Travel & Trek and the fantastic guide Zeewan. Upper Mustang permits, itinerary, hotels, and other necessary things were arranged by them.

Before setting off, I had high expectations of the Upper Mustang Trek based on Raul Lapeña Gomez's enthusiastic reviews, especially regarding the unique landscapes of the Upper Mustang region. In the end, those expectations were not only met but exceeded. The breathtaking scenery was everything I had hoped for.

Womens in the courtyard of Lo Manthang

However, one of the most meaningful aspects of the Mustang trek was experiencing daily life in the Tibetan villages along the way — their architecture, traditions, and hospitality left a lasting impression. Elderly women in the courtyard of Lo Manthang sharing their talk. Washing clothes and washing clothes at the tap was a fleeting sight of the daily life of people in the Mustang region.

Of course, Upper Mustang is a beautiful land. A photogenic destination for any photographer around the world (also for people with a mobile phone. Yes, I'm counting you as a photographer). I have posted a few photos of Upper Mustang on Google Reviews as well.

At the same time, I couldn't help but feel concerned about the visible signs of change and fragility in some areas — signs that hint at deeper environmental and social challenges affecting the region. 

As a traveler who has had the privilege of exploring the unique and awe-inspiring landscapes of the Upper Mustang trek, I feel compelled to express my deep concern regarding the impacts of climate change in this fragile and culturally rich region of Upper Mustang.

During my journey, I was deeply moved not only by the breathtaking scenery and ancient Tibetan architecture influenced by geography & Buddhism, but also by the warmth of the local people and the depth of their traditions. However, it was impossible to ignore the visible signs of environmental stress — from drying water sources and abandoned villages, to collapsing old sacred caves and weakened infrastructure.

What is also deeply concerning is the impact on tourism, which is a major source of livelihood for the region. Tourists like myself are drawn to Mustang not only for its landscapes but also for its living culture, ancient monuments, and vibrant communities. If this heritage continues to deteriorate, the number of visitors will inevitably decline, resulting in economic hardship for locals who rely on tourism to sustain their families and preserve their way of life.

Dry hills shaped by winds in the valley of Upper Mustang

This isn’t just a local problem anymore. It’s a global issue, and the Upper Mustang region is a prime example of how climate change is already destroying human heritage, forcing communities to leave their roots, and threatening entire ecosystems.

I sincerely request the Nepalese government to utilize the Upper Mustang permit costs to preserve local culture, environment, and encourage youth towards local entrepreneurship.

Similarly, I request international organizations, and environmental groups to recognize the urgency of this situation and take decisive steps to safeguard and preserve the cultural heritage, beautiful landscape, and social fabric of Upper Mustang. These actions are not only vital for the people of Mustang but also for the entire global community, as it would mean losing an irreplaceable piece of human and natural history.

Francesco Mariani is a traveler and environmental enthusiast from Italy. He visited Nepal in May 2025 and completed the Upper Mustang trek with North Nepal Travel & Trek. 

 

Author

Mohan Raj Bhandari

Founder/Managing director

A native of the Annapurna region, he brings over 17 years of firsthand experience leading treks across the mountains of Nepal. His deep local roots and proven guiding expertise make him a trusted authority on authentic Himalayan adventures.

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